Some places sum up the Ariège Pyrenees on their own. The Bassiès plateau is one of them: a string of granite lakes suspended at 1,650 m between the Vicdessos valley and Aulus-les-Bains, a staffed refuge facing the Pique Rouge cirque, and the GR10 running through, lending it the feel of a great traverse. It is one of the department's best-loved hikes — and one of the most accessible ways to taste the high mountains without being a mountaineer.
The Bassiès lakes: a unique lake plateau
The plateau strings together five main lakes: Étang d'Escalès, Étang Long, Étang Majeur, Étang Mort and Étang du Pla de la Font. Linked by streams and peat bogs, they compose a landscape of water and granite reminiscent of Scandinavia, with the silhouette of the Pique Rouge de Bassiès (2,676 m) as a backdrop. In summer, the grassy shores are a picnic paradise; early in the season, snowmelt swells the waterfalls tumbling towards the valley.
Route 1: the loop from Coumebière via the Port de Saleix
This is the classic route, and the gentlest. Start from the Coumebière car park (1,400 m), above Aulus-les-Bains on the Port d'Agnes road (D8f). The trail crosses the Coumebière plateau due east, then climbs in wide switchbacks to the Port de Saleix. Continue south up a steeper slope towards Étang d'Alate, before tipping over the Port de Bassiès: the plateau and its lakes appear all at once, with the refuge below. Allow about 11.4 km and 816 m of ascent for the full loop, around 5 h 30 of walking including the descent to the refuge (280 m to climb back on the return). A shorter variant is to climb only to the Port de Saleix or Étang d'Alate — already a fine goal in itself.
Route 2: from the hamlet of Marc on the GR10
On the Vicdessos side, Bassiès is reached from the hamlet of Marc (commune of Auzat) via the GR10. The climb is more direct and more sustained — about 700 m of ascent through forest then open slopes — but it follows the historic route of the great Pyrenean traverse, with fine views over the upper valley. This is the path long-distance hikers take between Aulus-les-Bains and the Montcalm massif.
The Bassiès lakes refuge
Perched at 1,650 m on the edge of the plateau, the Bassiès lakes refuge is staffed from 1 June to 30 September. It offers around fifty dormitory places (about ten remain available off season as a winter shelter), meals and supplies for passing hikers. Sleeping up there transforms the hike: sunset over the lakes, an exceptional starry sky — Ariège is one of the best stargazing spots in France — and a fresh start the next morning. Booking strongly advised in summer, especially at weekends.
Bassiès with the family: good idea or not?
The full loop is a genuine mountain day: it suits children used to walking, from 8-10 years old, accustomed to several hours of effort. With younger ones, aim for the short version from Coumebière up to the Port de Saleix, or simply picnic on the Coumebière plateau, superb in early summer when the peat bogs bloom. A night at the refuge, meanwhile, often makes unforgettable holiday memories for children.
When to go and what to bring
- Best period: mid-June to mid-October; snowfields may linger at the passes early in the season
- In summer, set off before 9 am: the Coumebière car park fills up fast and storms break in the afternoon
- High-cut boots essential: stony trails and wet sections near the peat bogs
- Water, windproof jacket and a warm layer even in August — the plateau is windy and the lake water stays cold
- IGN Top 25 map no. 2048 OT (Aulus-les-Bains / Vicdessos) or a downloaded GPS track
Getting to Bassiès from the Mirepoix area
From Domaine de la Trille, in Sainte-Foi near Mirepoix, allow about 1 h 15 by road to reach Auzat and the Vicdessos valley, or 1 h 30 to the Coumebière car park via Massat and the Port de Lers — a magnificent drive in itself. It is the ideal operating radius for a big mountain day: leave early, hike, and return in the evening to the mildness of the foothills, the terrace and the barbecue.
